making new marine vinyl boat seats
The plywood of the original car box and seat is rotten to the core, so everything has to be rebuilt, including new plywood, mats and vinyl.
Note this is the first time I have sewed vinyl and haven\'t sewed since I was a kid so please bear with me.
So this is one of my articles on fixing my 22 feet aluminum Sylvan boat.
The ship is on the inside side, so there is a padded motor box at the back, with a custom sized jump seat on each side of the motor.
Vinyl was almost shot all over the ship, so in my ultimate wisdom I decided to take on the project and redo the interior.
Hell, I sewed it back in middle school. what is that? . . . 25 years ago. . . . . .
I want a cake.
The first step is to buy a sewing machine and go to craigslist.
I have a singer 237 cast iron beast after $35, but in Italy in its early 60 s, there is no problem with this thing biting through eight layers of marine vinyl plastic.
So, after about two weeks of sewing practice, I think I\'m ready, so let\'s start the project!
We have sewing machines now. What else do we need?
There are many, I will try to compile listMarine ethylene (
Ebay is cheap)Marine Thread (
Recommended adhesive polyester size V69)
16 or 18 gauge ball point needle
By cordingFoam (
50% off Joaans fabric is not too bad in price. )
Plywood for base (
Below is more information about plywood)
Stainless steel nail and nail gun paint for plywood (
I used some old white left)Circular Saw (
Cut plywood)Sander (plywood again)
Electric carving knife (
For cutting foam)Scissors (
Before you start doing a lot of research, I\'m almost sure I\'m missing something and some good ocean sewing Internet resources are www. sailrite.
Forums on Com and www. iboats. com. Now on plywood.
There are a lot of grades for plywood, some people say that what you need is the marine grade, and some say that the pressure has been processed.
Here is what I found in my research: 1. Marine Grade -
This may be the bonding of many types of Cork with external waterproof glue.
The marine grade is not disposed of by rot and must be kept dry in some way (paint)and will rot.
The reason for the marine grade is that there is no gap in the waterproof glue and layer, which provides excellent strength for structural components such as the beam of the ship. 2.
This wood is made of many different materials, using waterproof glue, just like the laying of the ocean, but the quality of the wood is much lower.
There will be gaps and the quality of the wood is very low these days.
I used the South yellow pine CDX in this project, a 1/2 sheet cost me $13 while in the local area the ocean floor cost about $50. 3.
Pressure Treatment layer-
This plywood is embalmed and due to the toxic chemicals involved, care must be taken when using any treated wood.
This kind of plywood is basically cheap outside Grade laying and then treated with rot and insects.
This wood is relatively cheap, about $25 per piece, but usually wet, so you can expect warping and distortion if the frame is not tight.
For this project, I was cheap with CSX exterior plywood and chose to paint with exterior latex paint, two layers of paint.
Since this wood is not structural to the ship, the southern yellow pine is about five times more powerful than the fir tree used in the ocean layer, and I should be fine.
Execute instructions now.
Since I used the crumpled camera in the seat construction, we will skip the seat.
The seats are the same as the top of the electric chassis, so only smaller seats are considered.
So this box is made of two 1/2 pieces of plywood, the lower part and top of the three sides connected to the floor and beam are three sides, and the top will flip forward to enter the engine.
The whole box is covered in vinyl with a mat on top.
The top of the box may be able to reuse the wood, but I replaced it anyway.
The lower part of the box is on the floor of the ship and is often wet and rotted in corners and other places. So. . .
I started my plan to make measurements using the old box.
I asked Home Depot to cut the plywood into strips along the length of the panel so it was easier to move and reduce my cutting needs as I didn\'t have a 8 feet saw Guide.
So all I really need to do is cut the pieces into a certain length.
To assemble the box, I put some pressure-treated wood frames around 1 \"x1.
5 \"I was lying there and fixed it tightly together with 1\" nail and tighbond II waterproof wood glue.
After assembly I did a rough sanding to remove the pieces and break the edges of vinyl.
I put two layers of Sherman Williams exterior wall latex paint on everything.
These boxes are very strong once the glue is set, and once they are connected to the ship, this thing is nowhere to go!
So, once the box is done, I measured the top and sides, the bottom doesn\'t need to be sewn, just a large size vinyl strip to wrap it around.
Of course, to make it look good, the top needs to be boxed in some coding.
So there are the top and the box when sewing the seat.
The top is self-explanatory and boxing is a skirt hanging on both sides.
I really can\'t describe everything about sewing in this right, so please do some extra research if you take on this project.
First, the top is made into 1 \"two-way oversized, which allows 1/2\" to sew on all sides, which matches my coding size.
So the first step in making the box is to sew the thread to the top.
Because my sewing machine didn\'t have foot walking, I used a lot of double-sided tape to bring the strap on the fixed vinyl and make sure the two layers were fed at the same speed.
You can see in the photo, just sew together.
At the corner, I cut the curve by doing it without binding or twisting.
I use the maximum 4mm pin size that my machine will do.
Smaller stitching actually reduces the strength of vinyl seams, so use the largest machine.
The tricky part is at the end of this run, you need to remove the stitches of about 1 \"from one side of the rope and cut them off from the rope.
Then you need to close the other side of the cording and trim it to the length you cut out the other cording and fold the first side vinyl on the rolled-up side, and stitch it up to form a good joint.
Now that the top has been sewn, we need to add boxing. Easy right? Wrong!
This is a tricky part, especially for the long punch needed for this motor box.
I wish I had taken more photos here, but I was very angry half the time I did it and forgot to take pictures.
Start with a lot of double sided tape, start sewing, remember that you have experienced four layers of marine vinyl here, so you may have to motivate the machine to start working from time to time.
When you start boxing, leave about six free inches before you start sewing, and you will need this when you have to sew boxing at the end.
Continue sewing until about six or 8 inch from the end.
Once you get to the end here, you have to sew a seam to close the boxing.
So pull it together, see where the two sides will meet, and then sew the seam. once it is sewn, press the seam on it.
Note that when you finally finish the boxing match, you may be holding the rope at the same time, which means that you can sew up to eight layers of vinyl, plus a direct transition from four to eight layers, makes feeding difficult, so make sure you reduce the foot pressure on the machine and slowly move forward with your hands if necessary.
So you have finished the vinyl and let\'s go and install it now.
So cutting the foam, my method is to measure, mark it with sharpie, cut it with an electric knife.
I added about half an inch of foam on both sides to make sure the mat was good and full.
My 24 \"wide foam wasn\'t enough for the top of the box, so I had to glue another piece of foam to make it wide enough.
Be sure to glue the factory cutting line as the knife will not cut the line straight enough to clean the bonding.
Once this piece forms glue it sticks to the top of the box, I used the 3 m spray foam adhesive that was purchased again at Joaan\'s with a 50% coupon attached.
So we have the mat on it, so it\'s time to add some batting on both sides.
The batting will provide a small amount of buffer on the side of the box to make it look more complete, so you can\'t say it\'s a plywood box.
I just cut the batting to a rough size and glue it with Letai adhesive and I trim it once it\'s in place. Wow! Home Stretch!
So, binding vinyl, what can I say, but you do this with some serious grip power.
I use standard DingTalk gun and stainless steel DingTalk.
The ship manufacturers did not use stainless steel at first and they were rotten.
We can\'t use non in Florida.
Stainless steel hardware, so buy a box of staples for $10 to keep them easy.
So, you can bind vinyl as long as you continue to pull, bind and tuc.
I start from the opposite side and stay away from them.
Once the whole piece is bound, it closes for a clean look.
So here we have finished products, two seats and an electric chassis, how much labor it loves.
Please feel free to ask questions.